When tourists visit Japan, one of the moments that they are usually hoping to capture in a photograph is a geisha in her full kimono. Although most people associate kimono with these beautiful cultural icons, the garment is in fact the national costume of Japan and worn in various incarnations by most of its residents. The origin of the word kimono actually comes from Ki (wearing) and Mono (thing), directly translating to “thing to wear”. The T-shaped garment has an illustrious past, dating all the way back to the fifth century.

The earliest kimonos were actually directly influenced by traditional clothing of China. The garment actually has another name, “ganfuka”, which translates directly to “clothes of Wu”. It wasn’t until the 8th century that kimono truly came into style, however, and the overlapping collar because a predominant part of the fashion.

Photo by roger jones

During Japan’s Heian period (794-1192), kimono became increasingly stylized and elaborate, sometimes incorporating as many as ten layers of robes in varying colors beneath the top layer. Women also grew their hair to incredible lengths which complemented the long lines of the robes, resulting in one of the most striking and memorable presentations of the kimono over the years.

During the Muromachi age (1392-1573), the Kosode (a plain kimono considered underwear) began to be worn without Hakama pants over it and held closed by an obi belt. The fashion morphed again during the Edo period (1603-1867), with the sleeves of the garment growing in length and the obi widening. It seems that this last change hit a sweet spot for the Japanese, as the style has remained virtually unchanged up to the present day.

Photo by the pain of fleeting joy

A woman’s kimono may look simple, but there are actually fifteen separate parts of the garment, each with their own names! They also come in a wide variety of styles, silk being the most desirable fabric for formal kimono. Uchikake is one of styles most commonly recognized by Westerners due to its elaborate design. This is a highly formal kimono and is usually only worn by a bride or for a stage performance. The garment normally is heavily brocaded and is supposed to be worn over another kimono, acting as a sort of coat. When worn as a bridal kimono, it is either white or boldly colored with a red base shade.

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Other types of women’s kimono include the Furisode, a formal kimono worn mostly by unmarried women, Homongi, known as “visiting wear”, Iromuji, which are most commonly worn to tea ceremonies, Kurotomesode, which are worn by mothers of the bride and groom at wedding ceremonies, Komon, a more casual style that can be worn around town, and Susokiki, which is worn by geisha or stage performers and is very long, as it is purposely intended to trail on the ground.

A woman’s kimono can be very pricey. It is not unheard of for a woman’s kimono to cost $10,000 on its own, and the cost of accessories may drive the price up even more. Of course, there are much less expensive methods of acquiring one, and second-hand sales of the garment thrive in Japan. The obi, however, remain expensive due to the high level of craftsmanship that go into their creation, sometimes netting hundreds even in a second-hand state.

Not surprisingly, men’s kimono are much less elaborate than women’s and there are fewer styles. They normally do not consist of more than five pieces. The sleeves are long and much shallower than the deep sleeve seen on women’s kimono. Men’s kimono are averagely matte and usually come in subdued colors such as brown or green, although sometimes sumo wrestlers are sometimes known to wear them in brighter colors.

Photo by Vincent

Interest in the intricate practice of wearing kimono has spread outside of Japan, and it is not uncommon to find Westerners who have formed associations to share ideas and show off their collections. It is lovely to see such a honored ritual thriving in modern times, and when it comes to the celebration of brilliant color, kimono are simply breathtaking examples of the concept.

Header image by x-eyedblonde